“Big Ethal” the basket press at Restless River

It is Restless River time again! Every year the wines from Craig and Anne Wessels are one of the most exciting releases for Ex Animo, and the 2021 release is no exception.

Restless River’s star is on the rise, and has been for some years. We were first alerted to Restless River in 2014 when our quest for a top class South African Cabernet led us to Craig and Anne’s door.

Since then they have gone from strength to strength with award-winning wines, both for Cabernet and the Chardonnay. Formely in digital production, Craig is now dedicated solely to the Restless River project and is busy overseeing the expansion of vineyards towards a sustainable future.

Craig & Anne Wessels own and run their small family farm in the cool Upper Hemel-en-Aarde Valley. They are committed to absolute site expression & a minimalist approach.

Many may not realise that Craig has now completed 17 vintages from the fruit on the farm. He does things slowly, and properly, with intention and planning. Not much happens on Restless River by accident.

Anne and Craig Wessels

The focus at Restless River is on 100% single varietal wine. Each wine is named after the corresponding vineyard.

This year sees the new vintage release of the two foundation wines: Ava Marie Chardonnay 2019, and Main Road & Dignity Cabernet Sauvignon 2018.

Sadly there is no Le Luc Pinot Noir release this year.

The Wanderlust label is a project that allows Craig to exercise his creative muscles. Every Wanderlust release is different to those before it. The wine this release is the Wanderlust Pinot Noir 2020, made up of the Restless River Le Luc block from the farm, and another block in the neighbouring WO, Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge.

The Wanderlust project allows Craig Wessels to flex his creative muscles – the wine changes every year.

The 2020 Project: Pinot Noir

This wine is a blend of two vineyards within neighbouring appellations known for their cool growing season – ideal for the cultivation of Pinot Noir.

Upper Hemel-en-Aarde Valley: ancient, decomposed granite soils, north facing, mid-slopes with heavy clay at a depth of 50cm
Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge: shallow shale soils on clay, east facing, mid-slopes.

Harvest took place in early February. The grapes were hand-picked and placed whole cluster into open top vats and gently trodden to break the berries and release the juice. After a few days, natural fermentation began and the grapes were lightly punched-down every day. Once fermentation had completed, the wine was pressed using a hand operated basket press. Aged in barrels (10% new) for one year.

Christian Eedes: “The nose shows red currant, cherry, musk, tea leaf and a hint of mushroom. The palate is light-bodied with good fruit definition, fresh acidity and fine tannins. Lovely presence and very flavourful given an alcohol of just 12.8%.”

This Chardonnay bears the name of its vineyard, 2.06ha in size, and is registered as a single Vineyard. Slopes are south and east facing.Shallow top soils vary from iron rich rocks to a light sandy gravel. Below this is decomposed granite clay.

In our opinion among the top Chardonnays in South Africa – the tighness of palate and ease of power is exhilarating. Minimal new oak allows the site and vintage to shine through. Remarkable.

Christian Eedes: “On the nose, a hint of flinty reduction before citrus, almond and leesy complexity while the palate shows great fruit concentration without being too weighty or thick-textured. The fruit is pure but there is already remarkable detail, the wine possessing a silky feel in the mouth, the finish super-dry. Matured for 11 months in mainly 500-litre barrels, some 10% new. Alcohol: 13%.
97/100.”

This is the wine that first alerted us to Restless River years ago. This 100% Cabernet Sauvignon is grown deep in the Chardonnay and Pinot Noir heartland of the Upper Hemel en Aarde Vallley (just up from Newton Johnson). Cool-climate Cabernet allows for a longer ripening period and thus incredibly integrated tannin. Craig’s festidious approach results in a wine of structure and length, without relying on big, ripe flavours or lashings of new oak. Pure class.

Christian Eedes: “The last vintage before the four-year drought broke and this is headier and deeper than you might expect (not that the 2017 was too slight). Red and blackberries, earth, violets and crushed leaves on the nose while the palate has impressive fruit density and weight. The fruit is pure, the tannins fine yet grippy and there is very much a youthful reserve about it right now. Matured for 23 months in 225-litre barrels, around 25% new. Alcohol: 14.5%.”