Neal Martin, 2020 Worlds best wine critic of the year, is a senior editor at Vinous.com. His specialty and interests are in expanding coverage of Bordeaux and Burgundy, as well as South African and New Zealand wines.
― Neal Martin, Vinous
Martin began his career in the wine industry in Japan, working with wine exports. This experience ignited his passion for wine and inspired him to pursue a formal wine education. He gained recognition as a wine critic at The Wine Advocate. His writing is known for being an insightful analysis, with an engaging style, and meticulous attention to detail. In addition to his critical work, Martin has authored several books on wine, including the award-winning “Pomerol,” a definitive guide to one of Bordeaux’s most prestigious appellations. His contributions to the wine world have established him as a respected figure among enthusiasts and professionals alike, and his reviews continue to shape the perceptions and preferences of wine consumers worldwide.
Neal Martin is celebrated for his unbiased and candid assessments. He doesn’t hesitate to critique wines that fail to meet his high standards, regardless of the producer’s reputation. This integrity has earned him respect from both winemakers and consumers alike.
Ex Animo is delighted that a few of our producers have featured and scored very highly.
“The 2022 Pinotage, which comes from granite Soils and aged for 22 months in 50% new oak, has a delightful bouquet of dark cherry, blueberry and just a hint of violet and peony, quite delineated and focused. The palate is medium-bodied with very pliant tannins. It is refreshingly harmonious, certainly one of the more elegant Pinotages in this vintage. It’s a joy to drink.”
“The 2023 Chenin Blanc comes from a parcel next to Reyneke in the Karibib vineyard and was aged entirely in concrete. This has a more complex and vibrant nose than the chardonnay, revealing yellow fruit mixed with a nutty, slightly smoky scent. The Palate is very well balanced with a citrus-fresh entry and a very subtle flor-like finish that comes through more clearly on the aftertaste. Superb.”
“The 2023 Pinot Gris looks like a Rosé (as usual). Fermented and aged in concrete tanks, it’s quite fragrant on the nose, offering red cherries and light orange blossom scents. The palate is taut and fresh with orange rind and red cherries again, a crisp line of acidity, and a dab of stem ginger on the finish. Delightful.”
“The 2023 Cinsault comes from a parcel in the Rustenhof farm shared with Scions of Sinai. This was de-stemmed and spent eight to ten days on the skins. It has a pretty nose that is quite energetic and delineated, expressing white-tipped strawberry, maraschino cherry and just a hint of candy floss. The palate is very well balanced with a grenache like flashiness on the mid-palate and fine acidity. Crisp, focused and linear style, it concludes with a peppery finish. Very fine.”
“We begin in style with the 2022 Chenin Blanc from hogan wines, that I reviewed positively last year. This confirms my original review, though the nose has opened up since I tasted it, gorgeous honeysuckle and chamomile scents beginning to percolate through. The palate is crisp and linear, retaining the tension it showed then with vibrant, almost livewire finish. I can see this Chenin Lasting many years.”
“The 2023 Gramadoelas is a single-vineyard cuvée, 100% Grenache Blanc from a continental mesoclimate on schist and shale soils. It spent 11 months on the lees. The bouquet is beautifully defined and very focused, displaying yellow fruit, pressed white flowers and a touch of peach skin. The palate is well balanced, with notes of yellow plum, dried pineapple and stem ginger. Linear and poised, it boasts a spicy finish that lingers in the mouth. This is an outstanding follow-up to the impressive 2022.”
Scions of Sinai 'Granietsteen' Old Vine Chenin Blanc 2023
“The 2023 Granietsteen hails from a single vineyard of Chenin Blanc planted in 1978 that is low-yielding and exposed to marine winds. This vintage, it cropped around 26hl/ha. Around 80% was raised in concrete and 20% in older oak barrels for a total of 11 months. It has a lively bouquet with lanolin, wax resin and hints of chamomile coming through with aeration. The palate is well balanced with a tensile opening and a keen line of acidity, perhaps just needing a little more texture to come through on the finish. A dash of white pepper lingers on the aftertaste. Lovely.”
“The 2023 Rocinante is a white blend of 60% Chenin Blanc, 32% Grenache Blanc and 8% Roussanne, grown on granite soils and all picked on the same day. Yellow plum, candle wax and light oil resin aromas blossom on the well-defined nose. The palate is precise and smooth-textured with pitch-perfect acidity. A subtle mineralité bubbles through with aeration. Very composed and complex, this is a delicious white from Bernhard Bredell.”
“The 2023 Swanesang is 100% Syrah from a site four kilometers from the ocean on granite soils, planted at slightly higher density than elsewhere. Using 90% whole-cluster fruit, it was aged 80% in cement vats and 20% in barriques, with the former racked twice. It has a perfumed bouquet with a mixture of black and blue fruit and hints of black olive coming through with aeration—beautifully delineated but quite backward. The palate is medium-bodied with gentle grip, driven by marine-influenced black fruit. It’s powdery in texture toward the finish that’s redolent of a fine Cornas. Very persistent, this is a classy offering.”
“The 2023 Heldervallei is pure Cinsault from a single 0.5-hectare parcel that faces the ocean and has a slightly higher clay content. The aromatics take time to open, offering loamy scents, potpourri, strawberry pastilles and a touch of the sea. The palate is medium-bodied with crunchy red berry fruit and slightly powdery tannins. Fresh and vibrant, it concludes with a finish that is like a classic Spanish Cinsault. It’s wonderful now, but give it a couple of years in bottle.”
“The 2023 Féniks comes from dry-farmed bush vines planted in 1976 on silica soils. It included partial whole bunch to weigh down the cap and increase the fermentation with the submerged skins. This has one of those bouquets that will convert skeptics about the quality of Pinotage: pure, floral, elegant and complex. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly chalky tannins. Linear, fresh, tensile and persistent, it closes with a hint of cracked black pepper on the long finish. Superb.”
Van Loggerenberg 'Trust Your Gut' Chenin Blanc 2023
“The 2023 Trust Your Gut is 100% Chenin Blanc grown on granitic soils from the Karibib Vineyard. It fermented and aged in 500-liter French oak barrels for 11 months. This has quite a resinous bouquet, with touches of candle wax and dried honey. Crisp and linear, the palate is very well balanced with a fresh entry. It’s notably saline with a dash of white pepper on the finish—very fine, but it needs time.”
“The 2023 Kameraderie is a single-parcel Chenin Blanc from the Paardeberg, 80% planted in 1966 and the rest in 1980. It was aged in 500-liter barrels and concrete on the lees. This has quite an intense bouquet with yellow plum, lanolin and touches of sage and fennel. The palate is well balanced with a slightly petrolly entry, fine delineation and tension, and hints of stem ginger toward the finish. Excellent.”
“The 2023 High Hopes does not include any Cinsault this year, with the Syrah whole-bunch-fermented using submerged cap and aged in concrete, foudre and 300-liter French oak. It has a perfumed nose with wilted rose petal, peony and light loamy scents, tightly wound red berry fruit and hints of bergamot that develop with time. The palate is medium-bodied with svelte tannins, a wonderful silver thread of acidity and a pure, Côte-Rôtie finish—black olive tapenade on the aftertaste. Superb.”
“The 2023 Lötter comes from Cinsault vines planted in 1932 that produce naturally low yields. This was 100% destemmed and aged in three 500-liter French barrels. It has a detailed redcurrant and pomegranate nose commingling with wild mint, fennel and a touch of thyme. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins, piquant red fruit and a dash of white pepper toward the finish. Linear in style, it has a dry, almost “aloof” finish that keeps you coming back for more. Superb.”
“The 2023 Breton is pure Cabernet Franc from Polkadraai with 25% whole bunch, matured 40% in concrete and the rest in used barrels. It has quite an austere nose that demands coaxing, its granitic soils seeming to percolate through the red fruit. Fresh and vibrant, the palate is medium-bodied with crunchy red fruit, chalky tannins and a touch of graphite on the finish. This is what you might call a Loire doppelgänger.”
“The 2023 Graft is pure Syrah that was picked three days before the harvest deluge. Hailing from south-facing vines in Polkadraai, it was 100% whole-bunch-fermented with 17-20 days on the skins, then aged 80% in concrete and 20% used barriques. Like the previous vintage, this has an arresting bouquet with a mixture of red and black fruit, seaweed, bergamot and an antique vase of roses. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins, quite structured and certainly very linear. Just like a fine Côte-Rôtie, it’s saline on the finish with peppercorns on the aftertaste—for serious Syrah lovers.”
“The 2023 Geronimo is 100% Cinsault from low-yielding decomposed granitic soils that tend to produce thick-skinned berries. It underwent 60% whole-bunch fermentation and aged in 500-liter French oak barrels. Wilted rose petal and lavender open on the very effervescent nose, with touches of menthol emerging with time. The palate is medium-bodied with licorice-infused red fruit and fine acidity, becoming quite linear and strict toward the pastille-like finish. Very fine, very fun to drink.”
Neal Martin 90+ Scoring Wines of 2024
Neal Martin, 2020 Worlds best wine critic of the year, is a senior editor at Vinous.com. His specialty and interests are in expanding coverage of Bordeaux and Burgundy, as well as South African and New Zealand wines.
― Neal Martin, Vinous
Martin began his career in the wine industry in Japan, working with wine exports. This experience ignited his passion for wine and inspired him to pursue a formal wine education. He gained recognition as a wine critic at The Wine Advocate. His writing is known for being an insightful analysis, with an engaging style, and meticulous attention to detail. In addition to his critical work, Martin has authored several books on wine, including the award-winning “Pomerol,” a definitive guide to one of Bordeaux’s most prestigious appellations. His contributions to the wine world have established him as a respected figure among enthusiasts and professionals alike, and his reviews continue to shape the perceptions and preferences of wine consumers worldwide.
Neal Martin is celebrated for his unbiased and candid assessments. He doesn’t hesitate to critique wines that fail to meet his high standards, regardless of the producer’s reputation. This integrity has earned him respect from both winemakers and consumers alike.
Ex Animo is delighted that a few of our producers have featured and scored very highly.
The Wines:
R720.00Read more
Beeslaar Pinotage 2022
“The 2022 Pinotage, which comes from granite Soils and aged for 22 months in 50% new oak, has a delightful bouquet of dark cherry, blueberry and just a hint of violet and peony, quite delineated and focused. The palate is medium-bodied with very pliant tannins. It is refreshingly harmonious, certainly one of the more elegant Pinotages in this vintage. It’s a joy to drink.”
– Neal Martin, Vinous
91 points
R285.00Read more
Craven 'Karibib' Chenin Blanc 2023
“The 2023 Chenin Blanc comes from a parcel next to Reyneke in the Karibib vineyard and was aged entirely in concrete. This has a more complex and vibrant nose than the chardonnay, revealing yellow fruit mixed with a nutty, slightly smoky scent. The Palate is very well balanced with a citrus-fresh entry and a very subtle flor-like finish that comes through more clearly on the aftertaste. Superb.”
– Neal Martin, Vinous
92 points
R245.00Read more
Craven Pinot Gris 2023
“The 2023 Pinot Gris looks like a Rosé (as usual). Fermented and aged in concrete tanks, it’s quite fragrant on the nose, offering red cherries and light orange blossom scents. The palate is taut and fresh with orange rind and red cherries again, a crisp line of acidity, and a dab of stem ginger on the finish. Delightful.”
– Neal Martin, Vinous
90 points
R245.00Add to basket
Craven Cinsault 2023
“The 2023 Cinsault comes from a parcel in the Rustenhof farm shared with Scions of Sinai. This was de-stemmed and spent eight to ten days on the skins. It has a pretty nose that is quite energetic and delineated, expressing white-tipped strawberry, maraschino cherry and just a hint of candy floss. The palate is very well balanced with a grenache like flashiness on the mid-palate and fine acidity. Crisp, focused and linear style, it concludes with a peppery finish. Very fine.”
– Neal Martin, Vinous
91 points
R365.00Read more
Hogan Chenin Blanc 2022
“We begin in style with the 2022 Chenin Blanc from hogan wines, that I reviewed positively last year. This confirms my original review, though the nose has opened up since I tasted it, gorgeous honeysuckle and chamomile scents beginning to percolate through. The palate is crisp and linear, retaining the tension it showed then with vibrant, almost livewire finish. I can see this Chenin Lasting many years.”
– Neal Martin, Vinous
92 points
R330.00Add to basket
Scions of Sinai 'Gramadoelas' Grenache Blanc 2023
“The 2023 Gramadoelas is a single-vineyard cuvée, 100% Grenache Blanc from a continental mesoclimate on schist and shale soils. It spent 11 months on the lees. The bouquet is beautifully defined and very focused, displaying yellow fruit, pressed white flowers and a touch of peach skin. The palate is well balanced, with notes of yellow plum, dried pineapple and stem ginger. Linear and poised, it boasts a spicy finish that lingers in the mouth. This is an outstanding follow-up to the impressive 2022.”
– Neal Martin, Vinous
94 points
R440.00Add to basket
Scions of Sinai 'Granietsteen' Old Vine Chenin Blanc 2023
“The 2023 Granietsteen hails from a single vineyard of Chenin Blanc planted in 1978 that is low-yielding and exposed to marine winds. This vintage, it cropped around 26hl/ha. Around 80% was raised in concrete and 20% in older oak barrels for a total of 11 months. It has a lively bouquet with lanolin, wax resin and hints of chamomile coming through with aeration. The palate is well balanced with a tensile opening and a keen line of acidity, perhaps just needing a little more texture to come through on the finish. A dash of white pepper lingers on the aftertaste. Lovely.”
– Neal Martin, Vinous
92 points
R310.00Add to basket
Scions of Sinai 'Rocinante' 2023
“The 2023 Rocinante is a white blend of 60% Chenin Blanc, 32% Grenache Blanc and 8% Roussanne, grown on granite soils and all picked on the same day. Yellow plum, candle wax and light oil resin aromas blossom on the well-defined nose. The palate is precise and smooth-textured with pitch-perfect acidity. A subtle mineralité bubbles through with aeration. Very composed and complex, this is a delicious white from Bernhard Bredell.”
– Neal Martin, Vinous
94 points
R440.00Add to basket
Scions of Sinai 'Swanesang' Syrah 2023
“The 2023 Swanesang is 100% Syrah from a site four kilometers from the ocean on granite soils, planted at slightly higher density than elsewhere. Using 90% whole-cluster fruit, it was aged 80% in cement vats and 20% in barriques, with the former racked twice. It has a perfumed bouquet with a mixture of black and blue fruit and hints of black olive coming through with aeration—beautifully delineated but quite backward. The palate is medium-bodied with gentle grip, driven by marine-influenced black fruit. It’s powdery in texture toward the finish that’s redolent of a fine Cornas. Very persistent, this is a classy offering.”
– Neal Martin, Vinous
94 points
R325.00Add to basket
Scions of Sinai 'Heldervallei' Cinsault 2023
“The 2023 Heldervallei is pure Cinsault from a single 0.5-hectare parcel that faces the ocean and has a slightly higher clay content. The aromatics take time to open, offering loamy scents, potpourri, strawberry pastilles and a touch of the sea. The palate is medium-bodied with crunchy red berry fruit and slightly powdery tannins. Fresh and vibrant, it concludes with a finish that is like a classic Spanish Cinsault. It’s wonderful now, but give it a couple of years in bottle.”
– Neal Martin, Vinous
93 points
R380.00Add to basket
Scions of Sinai 'Féniks' Pinotage 2023
“The 2023 Féniks comes from dry-farmed bush vines planted in 1976 on silica soils. It included partial whole bunch to weigh down the cap and increase the fermentation with the submerged skins. This has one of those bouquets that will convert skeptics about the quality of Pinotage: pure, floral, elegant and complex. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly chalky tannins. Linear, fresh, tensile and persistent, it closes with a hint of cracked black pepper on the long finish. Superb.”
– Neal Martin, Vinous
95 points
R370.00Add to basket
Van Loggerenberg 'Trust Your Gut' Chenin Blanc 2023
“The 2023 Trust Your Gut is 100% Chenin Blanc grown on granitic soils from the Karibib Vineyard. It fermented and aged in 500-liter French oak barrels for 11 months. This has quite a resinous bouquet, with touches of candle wax and dried honey. Crisp and linear, the palate is very well balanced with a fresh entry. It’s notably saline with a dash of white pepper on the finish—very fine, but it needs time.”
– Neal Martin, Vinous
90 points
R535.00Add to basket
Van Loggerenberg 'Kamaraderie' Chenin Blanc 2023
“The 2023 Kameraderie is a single-parcel Chenin Blanc from the Paardeberg, 80% planted in 1966 and the rest in 1980. It was aged in 500-liter barrels and concrete on the lees. This has quite an intense bouquet with yellow plum, lanolin and touches of sage and fennel. The palate is well balanced with a slightly petrolly entry, fine delineation and tension, and hints of stem ginger toward the finish. Excellent.”
– Neal Martin, Vinous
92 points
R325.00Read more
Van Loggerenberg 'High Hopes' Syrah Grenache 2023
“The 2023 High Hopes does not include any Cinsault this year, with the Syrah whole-bunch-fermented using submerged cap and aged in concrete, foudre and 300-liter French oak. It has a perfumed nose with wilted rose petal, peony and light loamy scents, tightly wound red berry fruit and hints of bergamot that develop with time. The palate is medium-bodied with svelte tannins, a wonderful silver thread of acidity and a pure, Côte-Rôtie finish—black olive tapenade on the aftertaste. Superb.”
– Neal Martin, Vinous
95 points
R535.00Add to basket
Van Loggerenberg 'Lötter' Cinsaut 2023
“The 2023 Lötter comes from Cinsault vines planted in 1932 that produce naturally low yields. This was 100% destemmed and aged in three 500-liter French barrels. It has a detailed redcurrant and pomegranate nose commingling with wild mint, fennel and a touch of thyme. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins, piquant red fruit and a dash of white pepper toward the finish. Linear in style, it has a dry, almost “aloof” finish that keeps you coming back for more. Superb.”
– Neal Martin, Vinous
94 points
R400.00Add to basket
Van Loggerenberg 'Breton' Cabernet Franc 2023
“The 2023 Breton is pure Cabernet Franc from Polkadraai with 25% whole bunch, matured 40% in concrete and the rest in used barrels. It has quite an austere nose that demands coaxing, its granitic soils seeming to percolate through the red fruit. Fresh and vibrant, the palate is medium-bodied with crunchy red fruit, chalky tannins and a touch of graphite on the finish. This is what you might call a Loire doppelgänger.”
– Neal Martin, Vinous
93 points
R670.00Add to basket
Van Loggerenberg 'Graft' Syrah 2023
“The 2023 Graft is pure Syrah that was picked three days before the harvest deluge. Hailing from south-facing vines in Polkadraai, it was 100% whole-bunch-fermented with 17-20 days on the skins, then aged 80% in concrete and 20% used barriques. Like the previous vintage, this has an arresting bouquet with a mixture of red and black fruit, seaweed, bergamot and an antique vase of roses. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins, quite structured and certainly very linear. Just like a fine Côte-Rôtie, it’s saline on the finish with peppercorns on the aftertaste—for serious Syrah lovers.”
– Neal Martin, Vinous
96 points
R325.00Add to basket
Van Loggerenberg 'Geronimo' Cinsault 2023
“The 2023 Geronimo is 100% Cinsault from low-yielding decomposed granitic soils that tend to produce thick-skinned berries. It underwent 60% whole-bunch fermentation and aged in 500-liter French oak barrels. Wilted rose petal and lavender open on the very effervescent nose, with touches of menthol emerging with time. The palate is medium-bodied with licorice-infused red fruit and fine acidity, becoming quite linear and strict toward the pastille-like finish. Very fine, very fun to drink.”
– Neal Martin, Vinous
91 points