Palomino is behind some remarkably different wines. In Sanlúcar de Barrameda, it becomes pale, dry Manzanilla aged beneath a layer of yeast. With exposure to oxygen, it develops into darker, fuller Oloroso. Amontillado goes through both types of ageing. The grape is the starting point, but what happens in the cellar makes a substantial difference.
Barbadillo and Bodegas Fernando de Castilla give us a good reason to explore those differences. Their wines cover several dry styles, from Manzanilla to an Oloroso with an average age of twenty years. Alongside them, Barbadillo’s Sábalo shows Palomino as an unfortified white wine.
Photo courtesy of Bodegas Alvear
What changes in the cellar?
Manzanilla ages under flor, a layer of yeast that grows on the wine’s surface, protects it from oxidation and changes its flavour. This is called biological ageing. Oloroso ages in contact with oxygen, developing a deeper colour and fuller character. Amontillado begins under flor before continuing with oxidative ageing.
The traditional solera system blends wines of different ages. Small portions are drawn for bottling and replaced with younger wine through successive ageing stages, called criaderas. An average age therefore describes the blend, rather than a single vintage.
You’ll also see en rama on several Barbadillo labels. It describes bottling with limited treatment, aiming to preserve the character of the wine in the cask.
Two producers, two histories
Barbadillo’s story began in 1821, when Benigno Barbadillo and his cousin Manuel López Barbadillo bought their first bodega in Sanlúcar de Barrameda. The family’s history is closely tied to Manzanilla, which must be aged in this coastal town at the mouth of the Guadalquivir River. Its cellars are part of the story too: different buildings create different conditions for ageing.
Fernando de Castilla is based in Jerez de la Frontera. Fernando Andrada-Vanderwilde established the brand in 1972, initially focusing on brandy. Norwegian-born Jan Pettersen acquired the bodega in 1999, bringing his experience in the region to a small producer working with traditional cellar methods. Its Manzanilla is aged in Sanlúcar, while the ‘Antique’ range includes older wines such as the Oloroso below.
‘Solear’ spends around six years under flor. Barbadillo describes it as intensely dry, with a persistent saline character. It’s a useful starting point for understanding how yeast shapes Manzanilla: extended ageing, yet a pale wine that works well served properly chilled. Barbadillo recommends 6–8°C.
Bodegas Rey Fernando de Castilla 'Manzanilla' Palomino NV
Made from Palomino and aged under flor in Sanlúcar de Barrameda, this dry Manzanilla spends an average of three years in American oak through the traditional solera system. Bodegas Rey Fernando de Castilla describes yeast aromas and a light, smooth palate. Serve chilled at 5–8°C with seafood, fried fish or jamón.
Barbadillo 'Pastora Manzanilla Pasada en Rama' Palomino NV 375ml
‘Pastora’ begins in the Solear soleras before continuing its ageing in the La Pastora cellar. Barbadillo gives its age as around nine years, with biological ageing still central to its character. The producer describes yeast, walnut and camomile notes. Try it alongside ‘Solear’ to explore a more mature Manzanilla. Note the smaller, 375ml bottle.
Barbadillo 'Criadera Selection Oloroso en Rama' Palomino NV
This Oloroso comes from La CompañÃa, a former church Barbadillo has used for oxidative ageing since 1942. The producer describes a full, rounded wine with spice, suited to richer food, including stews and mature cheese. Alongside the Amontillado, it offers a clear comparison of two approaches to ageing at the same price.
Barbadillo 'Criadera Selection Amontillado en Rama' Palomino NV
Selected from the criaderas in Barbadillo’s Mil Pesetas cellar, this Amontillado combines biological and oxidative ageing. It retains the influence of its time under flor while developing through exposure to oxygen. Barbadillo describes it as savoury and recommends serving it lightly chilled in a white wine glass, with food or as an aperitif.
Sábalo is a dry, unfortified white wine under the Vino de la Tierra de Cádiz designation. Barbadillo makes it from organically grown Palomino on the region’s white albariza soils. It belongs here as a comparison: the same grape that underpins these Sherries, expressed as a still white wine.
Barbadillo and Fernando de Castilla: the dry side of Sherry
Palomino is behind some remarkably different wines. In Sanlúcar de Barrameda, it becomes pale, dry Manzanilla aged beneath a layer of yeast. With exposure to oxygen, it develops into darker, fuller Oloroso. Amontillado goes through both types of ageing. The grape is the starting point, but what happens in the cellar makes a substantial difference.
Barbadillo and Bodegas Fernando de Castilla give us a good reason to explore those differences. Their wines cover several dry styles, from Manzanilla to an Oloroso with an average age of twenty years. Alongside them, Barbadillo’s Sábalo shows Palomino as an unfortified white wine.
Photo courtesy of Bodegas Alvear
What changes in the cellar?
Manzanilla ages under flor, a layer of yeast that grows on the wine’s surface, protects it from oxidation and changes its flavour. This is called biological ageing. Oloroso ages in contact with oxygen, developing a deeper colour and fuller character. Amontillado begins under flor before continuing with oxidative ageing.
The traditional solera system blends wines of different ages. Small portions are drawn for bottling and replaced with younger wine through successive ageing stages, called criaderas. An average age therefore describes the blend, rather than a single vintage.
You’ll also see en rama on several Barbadillo labels. It describes bottling with limited treatment, aiming to preserve the character of the wine in the cask.
Two producers, two histories
Barbadillo’s story began in 1821, when Benigno Barbadillo and his cousin Manuel López Barbadillo bought their first bodega in Sanlúcar de Barrameda. The family’s history is closely tied to Manzanilla, which must be aged in this coastal town at the mouth of the Guadalquivir River. Its cellars are part of the story too: different buildings create different conditions for ageing.
Fernando de Castilla is based in Jerez de la Frontera. Fernando Andrada-Vanderwilde established the brand in 1972, initially focusing on brandy. Norwegian-born Jan Pettersen acquired the bodega in 1999, bringing his experience in the region to a small producer working with traditional cellar methods. Its Manzanilla is aged in Sanlúcar, while the ‘Antique’ range includes older wines such as the Oloroso below.
The Wines:
R405.00Add to basket
Barbadillo ‘Solear’ Manzanilla
‘Solear’ spends around six years under flor. Barbadillo describes it as intensely dry, with a persistent saline character. It’s a useful starting point for understanding how yeast shapes Manzanilla: extended ageing, yet a pale wine that works well served properly chilled. Barbadillo recommends 6–8°C.
R365.00Add to basket
Bodegas Rey Fernando de Castilla 'Manzanilla' Palomino NV
Made from Palomino and aged under flor in Sanlúcar de Barrameda, this dry Manzanilla spends an average of three years in American oak through the traditional solera system. Bodegas Rey Fernando de Castilla describes yeast aromas and a light, smooth palate. Serve chilled at 5–8°C with seafood, fried fish or jamón.
R380.00Add to basket
Barbadillo 'Pastora Manzanilla Pasada en Rama' Palomino NV 375ml
‘Pastora’ begins in the Solear soleras before continuing its ageing in the La Pastora cellar. Barbadillo gives its age as around nine years, with biological ageing still central to its character. The producer describes yeast, walnut and camomile notes. Try it alongside ‘Solear’ to explore a more mature Manzanilla. Note the smaller, 375ml bottle.
R1,125.00Read more
Bodegas Rey Fernando de Castilla 'Amontillado Antique' Palomino NV 500ml
Made from Palomino, ‘Amontillado Antique’ begins with more than five years of ageing under flor before continuing with oxidative ageing in the traditional solera system, reaching around twenty years of age. Fernando de Castilla describes an amber-coloured wine with pungent aromas, almond notes and a long, dry finish. Serve at 12–16°C with smoked fish, pickled dishes or a good consommé.
R430.00Add to basket
Barbadillo 'Criadera Selection Oloroso en Rama' Palomino NV
This Oloroso comes from La CompañÃa, a former church Barbadillo has used for oxidative ageing since 1942. The producer describes a full, rounded wine with spice, suited to richer food, including stews and mature cheese. Alongside the Amontillado, it offers a clear comparison of two approaches to ageing at the same price.
R430.00Add to basket
Barbadillo 'Criadera Selection Amontillado en Rama' Palomino NV
Selected from the criaderas in Barbadillo’s Mil Pesetas cellar, this Amontillado combines biological and oxidative ageing. It retains the influence of its time under flor while developing through exposure to oxygen. Barbadillo describes it as savoury and recommends serving it lightly chilled in a white wine glass, with food or as an aperitif.
R290.00Add to basket
Barbadillo 'Sabalo' Palomino 2023
Sábalo is a dry, unfortified white wine under the Vino de la Tierra de Cádiz designation. Barbadillo makes it from organically grown Palomino on the region’s white albariza soils. It belongs here as a comparison: the same grape that underpins these Sherries, expressed as a still white wine.