Roagna Barolo Rocche di Castiglione 2017

Roagna is one of the most sought-after producers in Piedmont. Historically based in Barbaresco Commune, the family now also has a property in Barolo (Castiglione Falletto). Luca Roagna produces wines of purity and power. Ex Animo recently imported the wines directly from Piedmont.

Roagna’s style is characterised by old vines, and immaculate attention to detail in the vineyards where they do not use any herbicides or pesticides. They use prolonged submerged cap maceration to harness abundant, persistent and fine tannins. And they practice extended elevage for their top wines – 5 years in neutral oak is not unusual.

Luca Roagna has the unique ability to render Barbarescos of mind-blowing purity and incredible textural allure. This helps explain why the Roagna estate is the benchmark Barbaresco producer.
— Ian McFadden, Crush Wine & Spirits

This is an intriguing set of new releases from Alfredo and Luca Roagna. Most of the Barbarescos and Barolos are from 2017, a year with heat and drought that yielded wines with less depth and structure than is typically the case in more favorable vintages. Vineyard signatures aren’t quite as delineated as they can be, but that is also to be expected. Readers will note the addition of a new wine, a Riserva of Crichët Pajè. Other than that, things are pretty much the same as always. Long macerations, extended time in barrel and a generally hands off approach in both the vineyards and cellar are the rules. Time always feels like it slows down here. That’s exactly what wines feel like. I tasted through the range twice: once in September just after bottling and then again about two months later.
— Antonio Galloni (Vinous)